Saturday 2 July 2011

The TMB - Day 3 - June 8th - Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta

The routine is well established by now. Last evening the trail brought you off the hill - so this morning you must climb again ..

Les Chapieux was an excellent place to spend the night. The Refuge was warm and friendly. I enjoyed a shower and breakfast, though my tent was packed-away wet. There was an excellent shop next door where you could buy local cheese (cow or goat) and bread. I imagine this place will be heaving in the summer, but in early June it was very quiet. The American group went by mini-bus direct to Courmayeur - I had the trail all to myself for the day, and didn't see another soul.

Refuge de la Nova, Les Chapieux 1554 m





The route was easy to navigate - it headed along the narrow road at first through the Vallée des Glaciers. A shepherd (goatherd?) was following his unruly flock ..


After climbing steeply to about 1800 metres, I reached the lush grazing land around La Ville des Glaciers, and turned off the road. The track crossed the narrow valley, and continued uphill to the Refuge des Mottets (which was closed) - then headed (in a series of zig-zags to ease the gradient) towards the Col de la Seigne 2516 m - and Italy.


It was wet, wet, wet, as I looked back down the valley.
Shortly after this picture was taken the weather closed-in.


I reached the Col about 2.30 pm - the highest point so-far at 2516 m = 8254 ft.
My gps altitude reading was accurate to within 2 ft.


The panoramic views were marred by low cloud, but I got some close pictures of Marmot as I walked down the valley, which kind-of compensated.


The weather soon picked-up as I neared Refugio Elisabetta and I had planned to go further - but the French guide (back at Les Chapieux) had told me there was a "winter room" I could use. I climbed-up to the Refuge to investigate. Sure enough - a large room with 25 dortoir bunks was accessible so I decided to rest-up. I was able to dry-out all my wet gear and spend a comfortable night in total solitude. What a stroke of luck!


As the clouds slowly cleared, the sun broke through, and a rainbow spanned
the valley below the refuge - for more than an hour! I have never before seen
a rainbow visible for such a length of time!


I heard the clattering of horns, and found a group of Ibex near the refuge - practicing their sparring technique. This was an incredible sight - pity I didn't
have a video camera for these privileged views.



Poor weather? Who cares? This was a pretty good way to end the day.

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